Water and Ice Yoho National Park protects the upper watershed of the ... and keep going east to the Yoho Valley Road for a drive to jaw-dropping Takakkaw Falls, at its best in the late afternoon.

A scientific debate has raged ever since—but most of it far outside the borders of the national park. To understand ... which I saw at the end of my drive up the Yoho Valley.

While Banff and Jasper get most of the attention, there is a third, lesser-known national park in the area that has managed ...